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Jamie Stewart

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Forbidden fruit [Apr. 7th, 2009|08:01 pm]
Jamie Stewart
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As expected last night's Panorama, which I am still yet to see (youtube is my next stop...), did indeed spur a fair amount of media interest in Dubai. Not all of it fair. Such reports have in fact spawned a genre all of their own - popularly known as "Dubai bashing." In the words of a very popular man, to be revealed below, "Only a fruit laden tree has stones thrown at it." So this will be a brief post, but one that I feel a certain duty to write.

Though many aspects of life here should indeed be put under the microscope, it should not be forgotten that the city, and its burgeoning growth, has repackaged the Middle East in the thoughts of many people. The means of its arrival on the world stage were questioned by last night's documentary, rightly so, but a huge experiment is underway , that mixes culture, ethnicity, and religion. It was never going to be easy.

This is a city experiencing ardent growing pains, that had planned to grow when growth became systemically impossible. I've written before that there is no shame in taking a hit due to the behaviour of a posse of greed-fuelled, unregulated, Western-centric, champagne-guzzling, yacht-sailing, cigar-waving bankers, injected to the hilt with bonus cheques and platinum credit cards, too busy getting their nails manicured, their empty suits fitted, their egg-shell-white-with-raised-gold-type business cards printed, and their lazy, sponging sons into the same company as them, to notice that they were dragging not just their partner for the night, but also the entire capitalist system, to its grubby knees.

It's true. The economy of the state of Dubai has taken an unfair battering from the international press of late. Dubai found itself in an unfortunate position when the credit situation turned from crunch to bite. The city was in the midst of inflating a real estate bubble, like many tiger-economies before it.

To draw a parallel, In Hong-Kong, property crashed in 1997, sliding 40%-60% as a result of the collapse of the Thai baht and subsequent Asian financial crisis. Within months, a penthouse overlooking Hong-Kong's Victoria Harbour shed so much value it was worth little more than, well, a shed.

So when the worst global recession since the great depression reared its ugly head last year, and the international liquidity river ran dry, Dubai, busy whistling away, blowing up balloons in the corner of the room and generally minding its own business, found its throat was particularly parched.

Add to this the fact that Dubai has opened its doors to the world, inviting those from all over to come and help build a nation. When you consider that around 90% of the population are non-UAE citizens, you begin to get a hold on the importance of foreign cash (and labour) to the economy. Again, not an easy situation to be in, when a global recession chooses to attack.

Paint a picture, if you will, of a grinning magician - circa Paul Daniels - who came along at the close of 2008 and in a flash swept the tablecloth from beneath Dubai's tea-set. But here's the point. The tea-set is still standing, albeit on shaky ground.

Dubai bashing is a very real phenomenon. I wouldn't be surprised to see it as the exhibition sport at the next Olympics. Now, I'm not one to cast doubt on other's work. But, to raise some choice points from recent articles on Dubai: No, the Palm island is not sinking; No, the streets are not plagued with broke expats dusting the sand from their clothes after another night sleeping in the sand dunes; and I've turned on the taps THOUSANDS of times, and a river of cockroaches has never come pouring out (thank the NY Times for that pearl!)

The point of this post is that it's important to get things in perspective. The lack of media freedom here, that I have touched on numerous times, has the unfortunate side effect of destroying credibility - it is simply not possible to differentiate the truths from the half-truths, and the assumptions from the down right lies, unless you are here, staring it in the face.

That's why I pay my respects to Ben Anderson, the journalist behind Panorama: Slumdogs and Millionaires. Yes, OK, I still haven't seen it, but the man was here, for three months, and he raised a deeply important issue; that of the exploitation of migrant workers. But such sterling work must be separated from that which is less so.

I will not give up on the case of the construction labourers. It's too important and unjust. In three weeks, thanks to an event organised by a good friend of mine Oscar Wendel, I am set to be in the same room as the UAE Minister of Labour Saqr Ghobash. And who else will be in the same room? Ellie Larson, the director of the Solidarity Centre, a US-based NGO seeking to build a global solidarity movement. There will never be a more golden opportunity to raise the labour issue back up the flag-pole of the local media where it belongs.

So rest assured, there is still much work to be done. Wrongs to be righted. Sometimes I genuinely do love my job, despite the occasional frustrations. As for Dubai, as it finds itself again thrust into the international media spotlight - and not out of choice this time - the truth is out there. Allegedly. Maybe it's a place that grew so fast, the wheels of legislation could not keep up. Well if so, they now have their chance.

In a rare moment of solidarity, I'm going to quote Dubai's ruler, who said last year, at the height of the upsurge in Dubai-bashing: "Only a fruit laden tree has stones thrown at it." A most articulate point. But who planted the fruit, that the minority may enjoy?

email: desert_blogger@hotmail.com

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From: ext_180031
2009-04-08 01:07 pm (UTC)

Riches for the rich...

Jamie, what you state is true. Indeed, when the going was good, all was good, when the going gets tough, only the tough get going. Seems the European, Indian & Chinese economies are tougher than American and Dubai-ian ones.

Here, where I live, across the road, in Oman, we have a similar setup in terms of expat laborers. The problem is that while rich, you-pay-me-just-for-being-your-sponsor locals are sitting and earning in the good times, even then the laborers still live in 3/4 people to a room. They still have 20 men sharing a bathroom and they still live in the coolest place they can find, which is not at all related to their bed. Any site project, at any good time, has had those wooden portacabins, overloaded with men, in the middle of the desert, drinking salty/metallic tasting water, wearing the same workclothes for the entire duration of the project, handwashing them in the evening, and that too only half of them, who want to. And this is considering a 3000/3500 person workforce, where required, is a 'huge' project in Oman. Dubai works on a bigger scale.

Imho, it is a bit more complex than what meets the eye. Forex, consider a typical laborer that we are talking about. A person who has paid a certain amount to money to leave his country (mostly India/Pakistan). In most cases who cannot even speak the common Hindi, let alone English; cannot sign their own name; give them a suite and they'll sleep on the floor 'coz they have been doing that their whole life; they will still squat on top of the toilet bowl.

Seen the slumdog millionaire? That is a realistic picture. Imagine someone who has spend 20-30 years in that environment and just can reach Dubai by spending money. Does that teach him how to use the facilities he's been provided? No. Give each man a room of his own and they'll be all sleeping in a single one and holding drinking binges and gambling tournaments in the rest.

I know I'm generalizing things, but such cases exist. And individual bad-exceptions reduce available facilities for everyone.

But still, basic rights are basic rights. Food, water, health. Apart from these... *shrug*

-The Fark Knight
(Reply) (Thread)
From: ext_204293
2009-08-19 09:28 pm (UTC)

Re: Riches for the rich...

@Fark Night...

Your slumdog and indian comment is as true as the cockroaches stories published in NY Times.

With your logic and as per Hollywood's top grossers, all Prussians are evil. All Germans are Nazis. All Chinese are experts in kung fu and All Indians live below poverty.

Next time you want to put a geo synchronous satellite up in space, come to India. We will sell you cryogenic engines. We give to the world more doctors and engineers that you and your computer can count; every year.

We are one of the fastest learners in the world and given our growth rate - population wise and development wise - we can innovate and invent more facilities you can imagine to use.

So, stop spreading cock and bull stories about Indians like you know them and have judged them.

Considering your post, and I am not being judgemental, you seem to be the kind of guy who would be on colombus's boat.
(Reply) (Parent) (Thread)
From: ext_180031
2009-04-08 01:55 pm (UTC)

This too...

Forgot to link:


(Reply) (Thread)
From: (Anonymous)
2009-04-08 06:44 pm (UTC)

Dubai Bashing is Deserved

I live here. Leaving shortly. The place deserves a bloody good bashing so it wakes up and changes the shittiness that exists here from exploitation of the "lower class" to the absurd scare-tactic-laws and rules which lurk beneath the pretentiousness and so-called "glamour".
(Reply) (Thread)
From: (Anonymous)
2009-04-14 02:36 pm (UTC)

give me a break

You've lived here less than a year, do you really think you're in any position to opine just because you work at ITP? Typical expat journo.
(Reply) (Thread)
From: (Anonymous)
2009-04-14 02:39 pm (UTC)

Re: give me a break

Also, are you kidding me you're quoting sheikh mo ???
(Reply) (Parent) (Thread)
From: (Anonymous)
2009-04-16 08:30 pm (UTC)

wow, pretty frightening to read these comments

Human race? Don't we all belong to it? I sometimes wonder if we're not experiencing a rebirth of Nazism reading the prejudice that has been published above. It seems like the old adage "Failed in London Try Hong Kong" rings true. I'd love to hear some of these "keyboard warriors" defend the racial slurs and flabbergasting ignorance that they profess in public. I doubt any of them have the courage as they are obviously weak, dim-witted and sad individuals who probably have difficulties looking at themselves in the mirror in the morning. It seems that blog comments and trolls will always attract each other just like flies and excrement. Great blog! Ignore the haters. Please keep posting.
(Reply) (Thread)
From: afurth
2009-04-23 03:16 pm (UTC)

My experience as a Dubai media spin-doctor

My views of Dubai’s socio-economic model were the reason why I decided to leave the city in late 2008, and to step out of the business I was involved with at the moment, which ironically had to do with promoting the image of the country in the international media.

In the following link I blog my reply to an online discussion forum initiated by Sultan Al Qassemi about his recent response to Johann Hari's article:

(Reply) (Thread)
From: (Anonymous)
2009-04-27 07:30 pm (UTC)

They bragged when they were up there

I remember the head of state of dubai giving lengthy interviews in which he arrogantly dissed Europe. His opinion was that Europe was old, sluggish, not modern enough and so on. I really couldn't believe it.

There's a man, sitting on an oil field that covers his every expense, in need of inviting 10 times the amount of strangers compared to the original populace to even build his country's infrastructure and arrogantly comparing himself with countries that have worked their way up with knowledge and sweat.

And now this man is in a tight spot, because the foreigners he despised are not coming for help/shop/work? Rightfully so! He absolutely deserves a bashing! These arrogant rascist emiratis have to swallow their pride. I am looking forward to the day they run out of oil, then out of water and electricity and then out of money.

In twenty years time I'll be sitting in an air-conditioned bus driving through the remains of dubai, stopping at the wrecked burj al arab to take a few pictures, buy a fish from an emirati bum who claims to be a sheikh of some sort and then continue to catch my ocean cruise.
(Reply) (Thread)
From: ext_204293
2009-08-19 09:34 pm (UTC)

Re: They bragged when they were up there


upto 10% of money in US stocks and Brit bourses are of these emiratis. Will they run out of it all, not unless Europe crumbles.
(Reply) (Parent) (Thread)
From: (Anonymous)
2009-04-29 12:37 am (UTC)

HA Dubai

Without the excessive pay, there is no other reason to bake in the hot Dubai sun
(Reply) (Thread)
From: (Anonymous)
2009-04-29 06:06 pm (UTC)


Having lived in Dubai for nearly 20 years in the 1980's & 90's it pains me to see what is going on. Progress is one thing the complete disregard fiscal responsibility is amazing - we all knew about worker abuse when we lived there but most were still treated like human beings. The last time I was in Dubai 2007 - I was amazed at the general disregard for Islamic culture and the way that excess was best.

Oh well I guess when the water runs out the desert will win - good luck to all those who invested hard earned money in property that they will out live
(Reply) (Thread)
From: (Anonymous)
2009-09-15 02:16 am (UTC)

Too much too fast

It is most likely that Dubai grew too fast and just like someone who gets a quick surge in cash goes out and splurges without thinking first. This article was very informative. Thanks
(Reply) (Thread)
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